GENERAL FAQ

UH480 Lens/ATH1 Transport/AKXPro Kit Plate/Simulated Projector	UH480 Lens/MTH1 Transport/AKXPro Kit Plate/Simulated Projector

What movies are available in the True Widescreen 2.35:1 or greater ratio?  A quick check through your current DVD, Blu-ray or HD-DVD collection will probably reveal that the majority of movies you already own are in the 2.35:1 or greater ratio.  Simply look on the back cover and you will probably see the “this movie is in letterbox format – the black bars at the top and bottom of your screen are normal” along with a “2.35:1” or “2.40:1” designation.  Almost all of these films will work properly with a Panamorph lens system and compatible scaler / projector.  This is also true of many high definition movies on TV, cable or satellite.  

What do I need in addition to a Panamorph lens system to make all of this work?  Here is what you need to create a True Widescreen image in your home theater:

1. A 16:9 home theater projector
2. The proper scaling mode to create a vertically stretched anamorphic image, either built into the projector itself or in a separate component (the necessary scaling modes are explained here, plus a list of compatible projectors is here).
3. A projection screen with the proper aspect ratio (we recommend a 2.40:1 ratio screen, for reasons expressed here)
4. Source material – in other words, movies shot in the 2.35:1 or greater aspect ratio (over 70% of the top grossing movies of all time).  These are available on DVD, Blu-ray, HD-DVD, or high definition TV, cable or satellite.

Will the Panamorph UH480 lens work with “XYZ” projector?  In all likelihood, yes.  The Panamorph UH480 lens was designed with a very large aperture so that it would even accommodate projectors with very large lenses or beam spots.  Having a large aperture also means that the UH480 will work through the entire zoom range of most projectors, which greatly eases installation concerns. 

How does the Panamorph UH480 lens mount to my projector?  The easiest way is to use our AKX or AKXPro Universal Attachment Kit ("X" refers to a version number), which includes a mounting plate that attaches the UH480 lens to most popular projectors on the market today (follow this link to find a list of compatible projectors and complete instructions).  For the AKX mount, it’s simply a matter of lining up the holes in the AK mounting plate to the mount holes in the bottom of the projector, then putting the screws from the ceiling mount* down through the previously lined up holes in the AKX.  In other words, the AKX mounting plate simply goes between your projector and ceiling mount.  In addition, we include a set of chains and eyebolts with the AKX to anchor the whole assembly to your ceiling (this is to prevent shifting of the projector and to make sure the weight of the lens is properly supported).  The AKXPro mount is only slightly different in that its much heavier and rigid mounting plate directly attaches to a Chief RPA ceiling mount head* so that the support chains of the AKX are not needed.  The UH480 lens with ATH or MTH transport kit then mounts directly to the front portion of the mounting plate, properly positioning the lens in front of the projector.   

* Projector ceiling mounts for are available separately from companies such as Chief, Peerless and Omnimount.

When the lens moves into place in front of the projector, I notice that the image shifts slightly to the left (or right).  Is this normal, or can I correct this?  On the AKX and AKXPro mounting plate you will notice that the four outside mounting holes for the transport are oval in shape.  Loosen the screws and slightly “rotate” the whole lens / sled assembly until the picture squares up, then re-tighten.

Do I really need to use the chains with the AKX?  Yes – we strongly recommend the use of the mounting chains in order to stabilize the projector / lens assembly.  Remember, the lens and sled add quite a bit of weight to the front of the projector and the AKX plate is lightweight aluminum.  Not using the chains could result in the projector tilting out of alignment or even cause injury if the mounting system used for the projector is not of sufficient quality / stability.

My projector has lens shift - is it OK to use it with a UH480 lens?  Use of vertical lens shift (shifting the image up and down) will generally not cause any image problems, but use of horizontal lens shift (shifting the image side to side) is NOT recommended because it will create "keystone" distortion.

In my setup I notice that the image bows inward at the middle of the top and bottom (or sides).  Is this normal, or can I correct this?  Distortion is common to all add-on anamorphic lenses.  If a lens expands the image (like the UH480) it will result in "pincushion” distortion - the corners are pushed out.  If the lens works by compressing the image (like the UV200) it will result in "barrel" distortion - the corners are pushed in.  Fortunately this bowing or distortion is so small (maybe 1/2 inch) that the screen borders can mask it off and you'll never think of it again.  However, it is important to note that distortion increases dramatically as you decrease your throw ratio (throw distance divided by 16:9 native image width).  At a throw ratio of less than about 1.6 the distortion becomes much more noticeable, although you can likely still mask it off with the screen border.  At a throw ratio of about 1.4 it starts to get pretty silly.  This is one of the important reasons we recommend longer throw ratios if possible.

In any case, you can minimize residual distortion by making it the same at the top and bottom of the image through adjustment of the tilt of the lens.  Even out the top and bottom picture geometry while positioning the lens vertically to center the output beam.  Once you have the picture “dialed in,” simply tighten the knobs to secure the lens into the proper position.

Note: It is possible to also reduce residual distortion in short throw ratio installations with expansion lenses by using a curved screen (see next question).

Do I need a curved screen?  Generally no, you do not “need” a curved screen.  Curved screens do have some distinct advantages, especially in installations where the throw is very short (1.6 or less) and pincushion distortion becomes an issue.  Note that most curved screens are actually "cylindrical" in that there is no curve up and down - only from left to right.

Advantages of a curved screen:

• Curved screens help compensate the pincushion distortion that occurs when an expansion-based anamorphic lens is used because an inward-curving screen naturally produces a form of "barrel" distortion which can partially compensate for the "pincushion" from the lens.  As you can imagine it can be complicated to determine how much curvature you need in the screen to compensate for how much distortion is in your short throw-ratio installation.  But even in a general sense, the higher the throw ratio, the less noticeable the distortion, and therefore the less of a “need” for a curved screen.
   
• For some people a curved screen can bring you an even greater sense of immersion when watching movies.  The slight curvature of the screen gives the impression of the image wrapping around you, involving you in the action to an even greater degree.  The opposite view is that a flat screen is more like a window into the movie.  Either viewpoint is valid and "best" is up to you.
   
• Curved screens can deliver a more uniformly illuminated image for centrally localized seating with less “hotspotting” since light that would normally be reflected to the side is instead more effectively directed back to the seating area. 

Disadvantages of a curved screen:

• Remember that a curved screen creates a form of barrel distortion.  If you use a horizontal expansion anamorphic lens system that is moved away for non-2.35:1 content then your images will show this distortion.  However, again, you can typically set things up so that at least the top and bottom of all images can be masked by the screen borders. 
   
• Cost.

What aspect ratio screen should I order - 2.35:1, 2.40:1, or 2.37:1?  The fact is that there is an entire range of aspect ratios, mostly from 2.35:1 to 2.40, used by directors for major motion pictures.  "2.35:1" has caught on mostly because many of the earlier True Widescreen movies (as opposed to those made for smaller screen) were filmed in this ratio.  We actually use the phrase "True Widescreen" to encompass the format realm of major motion pictures in an attempt to minimize confusion.  However, "2.35:1" is still strongly part of the vernacular for emerging home cinema so we use just as frequently.

The direct answer is that we recommend a 2.40:1 screen and to set your system up so that 1.85 movies (in a constant height system) fill the top and bottom of your 2.40 screen.  There are a lot of convoluted reasons for this, but basically using a 2.40:1 screen seems to be the most effective way of minimizing black bars (or strips) from the top and bottom of popular content short of having adjustable masking.

How far from the screen does the projector and UH480 lens assembly need to be mounted?  This question needs to be answered in two parts:

First, there is the issue of focus.  The UH480 lens is engineered to give optimum sharpness and full graphics level performance when mounted between about 14.5’ to 17.5’ from the screen.  This was a deliberate design choice, as experience has shown us that the vast majority of projectors are installed within that mounting distance.  Mounting the lens within those limits will reveal full 1080P pixel level sharpness even with critical test patterns.  Practically, however, the UH480 lens can be used from about 12 to 22 feet without any noticeable loss of sharpness with even high definition movies.  For those wanting “pixel level” performance at distances greater than 17.5’, we offer optional UH480 Long Throw Conversion Kits at additional cost.

The second part of the answer has to do with throw ratios.  We recommend a throw ratio of at least 1.6X the width of the native 16:9 image thrown by the projector (just to make that clear, throw ratio is NOT calculated based on the width of the 2.35:1 image you want to create with the UH480, but on the width of the image that the projector throws without the UH480 lens in place).  If you mount an anamorphic lens at shorter than a 1.6 throw, you will have more pincushion distortion and a greater need for masking or a curved screen.  It is also important to point out that the shorter the throw ratio, the wider the aspect ratio.  As an extreme example, if your throw ratio is 1.35 you should expect an aspect ratio even greater than 2.50:1!

Should I consider a fixed lens configuration?  If you are a True Widescreen fan of major motion pictures, a 2.40:1 screen and anamorphic lens are the obvious solution for max performance.  The next question is how important smaller format movies and other content are to you.  The most common reaction to contemplating a fixed lens solution is that smaller formats like 1.85:1 and 16:9 are shown with a lower number of pixels.  It is instantly obvious that with a moveable lens you get it all - full performance for 16:9 AND 2.35:1.  For some people this is the holy grail and there is no need to think of other options.  On the other hand, you can save both money and complexity of setup by never having to move that lens.  If that's not enough, you should be aware of a few other benefits of a fixed lens.

1.  Brightness and resolution per unit area is the same for ALL content. 

2.  Calibration never changes.

3.  Vertical resolution is the same for all formats - just like having a moveable lens.

The most interesting thing in all this is that with a moveable lens you are basically just getting 33% more pixels in only the horizontal direction.  It turns out that vertical pixel count is the most important parameter in determining perceived resolution (for a number of reasons).  Consequently, a change in horizontal resolution is more difficult to see.   Is such a change real?  Absolutely.  Is it noticeable?  Remember that in a constant height imaging system your 16:9 image is, by definition, narrower than your 2.35:1 image.  So while you get more horizontal pixels in that 16:9 space by moving the lens out of the way and not using Mode II scaling, those increased pixels are still in the same smaller area relative to the 2.35:1 image.  There's a point in your field of view where you can't even see an increase in pixels for the same image size.  Consequently, the disadvantages of a fixed lens may not be as significant as you might think.